2025 Demolition Derby Rules
Oblong. July 24 and 25. 2025. 7:00 pm
Demolition Derby Head Supervisor
Contacts: Rodney Shook 618-421-2938
Alternate Contacts:
Kurt Knollenberg 618-554-5734

Towing & Transporting
Towing and transporting DEMOLITION DERBY cars and trucks to and from the fairgrounds must meet highway safety codes. This includes: proper lighting controls, safety chains, tow bars, towing trailers, etc.
Running for ALL CLASSES
Safety belts, Z-90 approved helmet, goggles or face shields are mandatory.
NO deliberate hitting on the driver’s door. STRICTLY ENFORCED!
Vehicles must always have dependable brakes and boundaries including loading equipment must be observed. Any car shoved or driven out of bounds may immediately be disqualified if it is a safety hazard.
NO DRINKING OF ALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES on fairgrounds will be tolerated. Any driver or pit person under the influence of alcohol or drugs will be removed from the grounds. Coolers WILL BE checked AND confiscated if any alcohol is found.
No cars are permitted in the competition area before the heat in which they are competing.
A vehicle will be disqualified if a door comes open during the heat.
A one- minute limit is enforced by the track officials for restarts and making aggressive competitive contact with another car. Simple contact does not constitute combat and could be considered sandbagging.
All cars are to be removed from the Fairgrounds following the show or they will become the property of the Fair Association and the officials will have them removed. A removal deposit may be required in some cases.
A fire extinguisher in close reach in the driver’s compartment is recommended.
There will be two inspections of cars. One in the pit area before the derby beings and the second immediately before entering for the feature. Heat race winners and feature winner cars will be re-inspected. If a car is suspected of any building violations associated with their class, monies WILL NOT be given.
Additional safety regulations may be imposed depending on track conditions.
NO VEHICLES WILL BE LOADED BY TRACK EQUIPMENT BETWEEN HEATS! DO NOT ASK! This equipment is for track removal only, come prepared to have your car or truck loaded yourself. (i.e., winch, come along, Armstrong, etc.)
If cars do not have a number on them, they will NOT run. Every can needs a 20x20 roof sign!
PASSENGERS ARE NOT ALLOWED IN MINI CARS, MINI TRUCKS! ALL OTHER CLASSES MAY HAVE PASSENGERS!
Passengers MUST be 16 years of age!!! NO EXCEPTIONS!! Passengers MUST sign a release form at check in. Passengers MUST show a VALID ID TO PROVE AGE OR YOU WILL NOT RIDE!! IF FOUND THAT PASSENGER IS UNDERAGE DRIVER WILL BE DISQUALIFIED NO QUESTIONS ASKED!!!
All classes can use an unlimited amount of number 9 wire double strand anywhere on the car outboard of radiator. (No number 9 wire may be used on suspension unless otherwise noted in a specific class.)
If the rules say you can do it, then do it. Do not read the rules and try to interpret rules to fit your needs! JUDGES HAVE FINAL SAY! If you have questions CALL the inspectors. The driver MUST sign in before going through inspection. Once you sign in NO REFUNDS WILL BE GIVEN! You have two chances to pass inspection! After the second trip or 6:00pm you will NOT be allowed to compete, and you WILL forfeit your entry fee.
Entry Fees & Pit Passes:
Entry fee for drivers is $40 per car and $30 for passengers and $20 for pit passes.
Payouts
Thursday July 24
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Youth. 1000. 500. 200.
Powder puff. 1000. 500. 200.
Mini trucks. 1200. 500. 200.
Stock and mod mowers. 100 percent payback
Power wheels
Chain and wire trucks. 1000. 500 200
Friday July 25.
1st. 2nd. 3rd.
Bonestock. 2000. 1000. 400.
Light weld cars. 2000. 1000. 400.
Compacts. 1200. 500. 200.
Mod trucks. 1500. 600. 200.
Mod Mowers 1st 2nd 3rd

2025 Mini Trucks, & Vans
A cage is mandatory, and a halo bar is recommended. If there are more than 15 trucks, we MAY run heats!!! The 99 to 03 Durango will be allowed to run with mini trucks. NO 1/2 ton frames and no Octagon frames!!
Pre-Ran:
Re-stubbing at the transmission crossmember ONLY and may ONLY be butt welded with NO added metal. Four additional plates, 4”x6”x ¼” thick. You can put them anywhere you want, (on the outside of the frame), ½” gap between welds on plates and shock tubes. You can stub with a factory leaf spring or coil spring stub. Mini’s must use a compact truck stub.
Engines and Transmission:
No gussets from engine cradle, bell, or transmission brace to the frame other than engine crossmember. Transmission crossmember can be no bigger than 2”x2”x1/4” round or square. Transmission crossmember can be welded solid to rails or can have one piece of angle iron 2”x6”x1/4” per rail. No gussets form crossmember to frame!
NO KICKERS AT ALL!!! Mini Trucks & Vans may only be four- or six-cylinder engines!!
Radiator:
No homemade radiators. Radiator protector can be wire mesh ¼” thick fastened with 3/8” bolts to core support in four places TOTAL and cannot be welded. You may run manufactured radiator guards such as Nir or ski inc.
Rust Repair:
For any rust repairs on body or frame contact Rodney shook at 618-421-2938 BEFORE repairing or you will cut!
Hump Plates:
You can have hump plates on a coil spring rear end. Plates can be 22” long 6” tall and 3/8” thick. Plates must be centered in the hump; however, they do not have to follow the contour of the hump but must be on the outboard side of the frame.
Frames:
WHAT IS NOT ALLOWED: NO FRAME SHAPING, NO PINNING FRAME, AND NO PAINTING FRAME!
WHAT IS ALLOWED: You can weld the top and bottom frame seams from firewall forward. Pass may not be any larger than ½” wide. DO NOT reweld the upper or lower a-arm brackets when welding the frame seams. Frame may be shortened but must be able to utilize the factory core support mount in the factory location. Crossmembers can be plated TOP side only, 3/8” max. Plates may not extend up on the frame rails. You can have 2, 4x6x1/4” thick plates (one per frame rail) on a fresh truck and must have ½” gap between welds on plates and shock tubes. You cannot put leaf springs under a coil spring frame or coils under a leaf frame. Mini Trucks MUST BE on a MINI Frame. Body and frame must be Ford on Ford, Chevy on Chevy, and so on.
You may pitch any year of car in 1 of 3 locations:
1st Location: Crush boxes: cutting the 3 flaps, and rewelding only where flaps were cut with ½” wide pass max.
2nd Location: Transmission crossmember: no added material or fillers to weld the frame together where pitched. 1 pass weld ½” wide.
3rd Location: in front of the firewall, you can cut a v out of the bottom of the frame. Single bead to weld it back together. No added material to weld it together.
Cage:
Door bars may extend from the firewall to rear wheel well; they may be running inside the doors to allow more room in drivers compartment. Door bars must remain a minimum of 1’ off the floor of trucks! More than 1 door bar will be allowed per side. Only one of the door bars will be allowed to run in the rear wheel well. The second door bar will only be allowed no further than 6” past the rear seam of front door. Dash bar may be no larger than 4x4 and must remain 4” away from firewall. The rear spreader bar may be no larger than 4” and may not be any further than 6” behind the driver’s seat. All cage components must be a minimum of 4” off the floor, EXCEPT down bars and side door bars. You will be allowed 4 down bars. Down bars may not be any larger than 2x6x1/4” and must be welded to the door bars. The down bars must remain vertical and cannot extend higher than the door bar UNLESS being used as a rollover bar. These bars may be welded to the frame. They cannot cover any body mounts. You may plate the inside of the driver and passenger door with material NO thicker than ¼”. No cage components may be welded to the frame except down bars mentioned above. The front two down bars cannot go past the firewall. Rollover bars must be attached to the 4-point cage, must be vertical and cannot be angled forward or backwards. Rollovers may also be bolted to roof with 5/8 bolts or smaller.
Fuel Tank:
Metal fuel tanks only! No plastic tanks! No exceptions! Your gas tank MUST be mounted inside the gas tank protector. If you are using an electric fuel pump you MUST have a lighted switch. NO exceptions! Fuel leaks of ANY kind will not be allowed or tolerated!!Make sure your tank, tank fittings, and fuel lines are snug and secure. Absolutely NO ratchet straps to hold the tank down. Tank MUST be bolted or chained, or you will NOT participate!!!
Fuel Tank Protector:
The gas tank protector can be as wide as the inside of the bed and MUST stop at the front of the wheel wells in the bed. It can be bolted or welded to the frame in two spots total. In front of wheel wells all cage material must be infront of the wheel wells.
Battery Boxes:
Two automotive batteries can be used but must be secured and covered inside the driver’s compartment of the truck.
Core Support:
Core support cannot be moved from the factory location. It must stay bolted to fenders in the same way it came from the factory. You may replace core support bolts with 5/16” bolts and washers but only using the number of bolts it had from the factory. Your core support spacers may be NO larger than 3x3 square tubing ¼” thick. Tubing may pass through the core support. It may run from the top side of the core support. 1” all thread may be used for the core support body mount and may be welded to the frame or back of the bumper.
A-Arms:
You can use two straps of 2”x6”x1/4” per A-Arm. Must go from the top A-Arm to the spring pocket ONLY! You cannot have kickers to the frame behind the A-Arms!
Steering Components:
You may use aftermarket spindles, ball joints, tie rods, drag link, and steering columns. Hydraulic steering is allowed.
Leaf Spring Front End:
You can have a piece of 2”x3”x ¼” thick tubing from the axle to the side of the frame and only a 2’ weld on the front and back side of the tubing to the frame. (This is your A-Arm strap.)
Rear End:
Any rear end 8-lug may be used and can only be chained in two places. May have 2, (one per frame rail) no bigger than 2 ½” x 2 ½” box tubing or pipe. Frame to rear end can be welded.
Rear Suspension:
Factory leaf spring trucks & SUV’s, the leaf springs must be stock and made of stock leaf spring material. You may only have a total of 9 leafs per side and no thicker than 3/8” thick. You are allowed 6 clamps per side with only 4 of the clamps being homemade. Homemade clamps cannot exceed 2”x 2”x ¼”. Factory coil spring trucks & SUV’s, you can change springs to a stiffer spring to achieve desired height. Do not raise suspension in any other way. You can chain, bolt, or wire the coil springs to the rear end to prevent the spring from falling out. The control arms can be reinforced or replaced with tubing no larger than 3”x3” square tubing. Watts link conversion kits are allowed made with material no thicker than ¼”. Cannot wrap leaf springs in duct tape.
NO HOMEMADE LEAF SPRING HANGERS! MUST BE FACTORY HANGERS! (THEY CAN BE WELDED TO THE FRAME.)
Front Bumpers:
Front bumpers can be homemade. On a homemade “pointy” bumper the point may be no longer than 13” from the back of the bumper to the front of the point and no more than 8” tall. Point must be contoured from frame rails. The bumper height maximum is 29” to the top of the bumper. No wedges, officials will have final say.
FIRST OPTION FOR MOUNTING BUMPER: You may use the original shock tube. It may be welded to the frame. May only be welded 10”.
SECOND OPTION FOR MOUNTING BUMPER: You can have a shock tube 10” long, 3x3x1/4” thick from bumper back welded to frame.
Cabs:
May be bolted to the bed with two bolts per side and may also be welded to bed sides.
Hoods:
You can use 6 pieces of ¾” all thread to bolt the hood down. This does not include the All thread that runs through the core support. You may use no more than 20 bolts in the hood no bigger than 3/8” diameter to hold sheet metal of the hood together.
HOODS MUST GO THROUGH INSPECTION WITH THE CAR AND MUST BE UNFASTED AND READY TO INSPECT!!!
Fenders:
You may use 10 bolts 3/8” in diameter per wheel on front and back. No skinning or added support of any kind allowed.
Doors:
Doors can be welded solid all the way around with no bigger and 4”x ¼” from sheet metal to sheet metal. Front doors may be plated inside and out. If door is plated on the outside, door seam to door seam only ¼” thick. If the door is plated inside, it may go from the sidebar to sheet metal only and no wider than the door seams.
Window Bars:
Front Window: For safety, all cars must have 2 window bars extending from the roof to the firewall. The strap cannot be any larger than 3/8”x 3” flat strap and must be at least 14” apart at the firewall. These straps must not come in contact with the dash bar or rollover bar in any way. These straps cannot be connected in any way unless your firewall is cut out.
Rear Window: Can have a mesh guard behind the driver’s head.
Body Shaping:
You may only crease/shape front fenders and rear quarter panels.
Body Mounts:
Maximum of 1” All thread/bolts are allowed for body mounts. Plates for the body mounts may be no larger than 4”x 4”x ¼” plates. 1 extra body mount per rail is allowed inside the driver’s compartment of the car.
Tailgate:
May be welded standing up or laying down. (LEAVE INSPECTION HOLE IN THE TAILGATE) You can add 6 all threads to the tailgate and bed to help hold it in place, 1” diameter all thread maximums. The washer can be no bigger than 4x4x1/4” thick (tailgate plates).
Rear Bumpers:
Back bumpers can be homemade. No bigger than 6x6 square tubing, rectangle, or pipe. If you are using tubing for the bumper, it must be STRAIGHT WITH NO POINT!!! Rear bumper height minimum is 13” from the ground to the bottom of the frame or bumper. Will be measured from whichever is closest to the ground.
FIRST OPTION FOR MOUNTING BUMPER: You may use the original shock tube. It may be welded to the frame and the length of the shock tube.
SECOND OPTION FOR MOUNTING BUMPER: you can have a shock tube 10” long, 3x3x1/4” thick, from the bumper back, welded to the frame.
Tires:
Any 19.5” tire or smaller may be used. No studs in the tires. No wheel weights and no split rims AT ALL!!!

2025 Mod Trucks
Engines & Transmissions:
-Any motor or transmission in any vehicle.
-No gussets from engine cradle, bell, or transmission brace to the frame other than the engine crossmember.
-Skid plates allowed but can’t extend more than a ½” from the pan they are protecting.
-Slider shafts are allowed.
-No rear ends bigger than a 3500 series pickup. If running a dually rear end you may only run one wheel per side.
-NO KICKERS AT ALL!!
Frames:
-No pinning, plating, filling, stuffing, or painting;
-Frame may be seam welded. Single pass only.
-Pre-rans are allowed 6 plates total. Plates are only allowed on a visible bend and cannot be bigger than 4”x8” max with ½” gap between welds.
Cage:
-4-point cage allowed and highly recommended.
Fuel Tank Protector:
-Gas tank protectors allowed and is not to extend more than 36 inches from the front of the bed but can be full width of the bed.
Suspension:
-Front suspensions may be converted from coil spring design to leaf spring design. Keep the leaf springs mounts minimal. Do not use them to strengthen the frame.
-Tie rods can be welded up 1"x1"x1/4" Angle to tube of tie rod ONLY
-You may add 2 clamps in front of the axle and 3 behind the axle. Max of 2 bolts per clamp. Bolts can’t be bigger than 3/8” and clamps can only be 2” wide. No duct tape or welding on the springs.
-Aftermarket steering shafts are allowed.
-Solid front suspensions are allowed but do not use this to strengthen the frame or you will need to cut it in order to run.
Bumper/Bumper Mounting:
-Homemade pointy bumpers must have a tapered point that closely resembles a Chrysler pointy bumper. No bigger than 13” point.
-Bumpers may be plated on the inside and on the backing of the bumper. No sharp edges.
-Any front bumper bracket may be used on any truck. If you choose to, you may make your shocks out of 2”x2” tubing.
-Absolutely no bracket or shock may be welded past 6 inches behind the factory core support mount hole on the frame rail. If your trucks factory shock or bracket goes farther than 6 inches back, it must remain completely factory beyond the allotted 6 inches.
-Bumper height is a maximum of 29 inches to the bottom of the front bumper and a minimum of 18 inches to the bottom of the rear bumper.
Cabs:
May be bolted to the bed with two bolts per side and may also be welded to bed sides.
Body
-Doors may be welded solid and cab can be welded to bed. (Please do both!!!)
-All body bolts can be replaced and bolted solid with no bolts bigger than ¾”. The only exception is you may use 1” all thread in the core support and run it up through the hood. 4”x4” maximum body mount washer size.
- In addition to the 2 pieces of all thread in the core support, you will be allowed 4 more bolts to hold the hood down. Must be body to body only and the washers must not exceed 4”x4”. Or you may use double stranded #9 wire in 8 spots. It must be body to body only.
- You may also run double stranded #9 wire from the front bumper to the hood or core support in 4 places only.
- No more than 10 3/8” bolts to hold your outer hood skin to your inner hood skin.
- Tailgates may be welded solid. You can add 6 all threads to the tailgate and bed to help hold it in place, 1” diameter all thread maximums.
- You may fold bedsides over from the wheel wells back and tailgate may be folded over
- If you choose to “tuck” a suburban or other long roof vehicle you may only attach the roof to quarter panels with 8 spots of double stranded 9 wire. Body to body only!!
- Ten 3/8” bolts per wheel well. Hardware washers only.
- For any rust repairs on the body or frame you must contact Rodney Shook at 618-421-2938 BEFORE repairing or you will cut!

2025 Compact Cars
1. Front and rear wheel drive cars
2. Must be powered with 4 or 6 cylinder engines,
3. Wheelbase MUST be 108 inches on front wheel drive and 105 inches on rear wheel drive. NO EXCEPTIONS!
4. No moving/bending a stock or aftermarket component to shorten wheelbase.
5. NO four-wheel drive vehicles.
6. All cars MUST have a cage! MANDATORY! Four point minimum.
7. ALL glass, side windows, rear windows, headlights, and taillights MUST be removed! Rolling windows down is not permitted. Remove all glass mirrors and plastic. Remove all decking in wagons.
8. Vehicles must be swept clean of all debris, including trunk.
9. Rear seat of the sedan MUST be removed, top and bottom. On station wagons all seats and decking must be removed. Station wagons must be emptied to floorboards.
10. No spare tires, broken glass, or trash etc, allowed in cars.
11. Cars MUST have a seat belt and working brakes! MANDATORY!!
BODY/BODY MOUNTS
1. Fenders may be bolted together with ⅜ inch bolts or smaller with ⅜ inch or smaller washers only. A maximum of 10 bolts per fender.
2. All doors may be welded (Outside of body only), chained, or wired.
a. Straps can NOT be larger than ¼ inch thick and 4 inches wide on the door shell (vertical) and 2 inches wide on the window frame.
b. You may beat tops of doors down and may tack weld them in three places with a maximum of 1 inch weld each.
3. NO doubling of body panels allowed; NO added metal allowed.
4. If you have rusty floorboards: you may patch but you must cut out all the rust and overlap no more than 1 inch with the same thickness as body material and sheet metal screws (NO more than 1 every 4 inches.) No welding to floorboards or the firewall.
5. You may crease/enhance sheet metal body panels but do NOT fold and weld. NO extra metal may be added.
6. NO other body welds other than what is listed above! This includes body seams anywhere on the car!
7. ALL sunroofs MUST be covered with a thin sheet of metal. Welded or bolted.
a. If bolted; bold head must be inside of the car or riveted.
b. NO #9 wire or chain to accomplish this will be allowed.
8. Pre-ran cars may install new front clip. Any clip may be used on any car but MUST be installed in stock manner. Officials must approve this!
9. You may have a rear window bar 2 inches by 2 inches by ¼ inches maximum in size, 6 inches maximum on roof 4 inches by 4 inches by ¼ inch flat plate to attach to this bar top and bottom and must be centered on side drip rail on trunk NO further back (2 inches on each side).
10. All body mounts bolts may be replaced with ½ inch in outside diameter bolts with a stamped washer. Do not take them out and place the body on frame.
a. if replaced a gap of 1 inch minimum is mandatory between body and frame. You may replace with a stack of washers, or one piece of anything solid as long as it is about the same diameter as the factory bushing. Do NOT crush factory body bushings.
b. Body mount bolts inside passenger compartment that are close together may have 1 washer 6 inches by 12 inches and must have 2 or more body mounts through washer. You may add 2 additional body mount bolts per side inside the passenger compartment. All all-thread MUST have a nut on top and bottom and NO welds.
11. A MINIMUM of one chain or wire running from the outside (top) of roof down to the cowl OR bar down to the dash bar of the cage on the front window is MANDATORY for safety.
a. MAXIMUM of 2
b. If using metal straps; 2 inches wide by ¼ inch thick 12 inches apart MAXIMUM. Can go to the front dash bar or cowl then to the top lip area of windshield only.
12. NO welding the K member to the body; You are allowed to remove the front body mount spacer. This is where your front all-thread would go and suck the body down to the K member.
FRAME
1. NO kickers!
2. Do NOT reweld engine cross member seams or any other brackets attached to frame or sheet metal under hood or trunk.
3. NO CONCRETE!!
4. Do NOT weld factory holes up; All factory holes must be open for inspection of the frame.
5. You can NOT alter the frame in any other way than specified in rules. Do not crease or reshape frame.
6. You may run 1 wire or chain from the frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind the back tires/wheels.
7. You may put a bolt with a stamped flat washer through the frame to hold it together.
a. Only 1 per wheel opening must be open during inspection. Do NOT weld the washer. (Pinning of the frame)
8. You may notch the frame for minimal pre-bending but do NOT weld the cut.
9. If changing the front stub;
a. Cut 3 inches behind the second cross member bolt hole. When replacing you can overlap 2 and a ½ inches to be able to weld both sides but NO adding extra metal.
b. MUST be of the same make and model
10. If restubbing one side of the frame;
a. You are allowed to cut and fit the new frame flush and weld one pass all the way around (butt, fit, weld).
b. MUST be of the same make and model.
11. All trailer hitches MUST be removed!!
12. If running a preran car;
a. You are allowed 6 patch plates MAX; 4 inches by 4 inches by ¼ inch.
b. Must be painted a bright color so it is easily noticeable for the inspectors.
c. After inspection or heats NO welding these plates on! If additional plates are found after inspection or heat, NO money will be paid.
13. Fresh cars are allowed (2) 4 inch by 4 inch by ¼ inch plates to fix or patch rust holes.
a. If needing to fix or patch rust holes on preran, refer to patch plate rule.
14. Attachment of lower sub frame to body’ you can use only ⅜ inch chain or smaller. You can weld the links at each end for attachment points.
a. Preran cars can use metal strap BUT each one counts towards/as your patch plates.
CAGE/HALO BAR
1. All driver and passenger doors may be reinforced.
2. Minimum of 4 point; 6 point recommended.
Cage is MANDATORY!
3. Cross bars may be ran as follow:
a. 1 across the dash, 1 behind front seats, and 1 in rear seat area. 3rd bar MUST stay inside the interior of the rear driver's compartment, NOTHING past the front of the package tray. NOTHING can be added to the bottom of this bar.
4. You can run 4 down tubes (2 per side). 2 of these tubes MUST be mounted in the following way on each side.
a. (1) down tube must be to flat part of the frame no further forward than the inner front door seam with a max distance of 2 feet from the same measuring point.
b. Lower door bars are allowed between down tubes but must be 6 inches or more above the top of the frame.
c. NOTHING outside the drivers’ compartment.
d. You can have steel plate between the cage and front doors. Must be securely fastened to the cage.
e. Front bar must be mounted no more than 2 inches below the bottom of the front window seal and be no more than 4 inches in diameter. Must have 6 inches between front bar and center of firewall on a fresh car. Front bar can NOT be attached to the firewall at any time.
f. All down tubes MUST be behind the dash bar, straight up and down and on flat part of flame. Can NOT go to body mount boxes. NO kickers to rear humps.
g. NOTHING out of the rear driver's compartment.
h. You can NOT weld anything to the front bar protruding toward the distributor protector.
g. NO grater plates, metal plates or tubing on exterior of body (driver and passenger doors).
5. Halo bars are allowed.
a. Can be attached to the bar behind your seat or could be run to the frame, but it would then be counted as one of your down tubes.
b. There MUST be 6 inches minimum distance (gap) from the halo bar and the top of your rear window bar. NOTHING can be attached to the halo bar.
HOODS/TRUNKS/TAILGATES
1. Hoods MUST be open at inspection! Do NOT come to the inspection line with the hood bolted down.
2. Hoods MUST have 2 holes at least 4 inches in diameter on each side of the carburetor (not directly on top of carburetor). If Hood is removed, either the fan blade must be removed, or the fan belt must be cut.
3. NO second all-thread welded to the side of the frame and ran through at the mid point of the hood.
4. On all cars; hoods, trunks and tailgates may be secured with the following method:
a. HOOD
i. (2) pieces of 1 inch all-thread (NO sleeving)
ii. Can have a 4 inch or less spacer free floating or welded between core support and frame with a washer no larger than 6 in outside diameter and ⅜ inch thick or you may use angle iron back to back with a bolt through it.
iii. Angle iron cannot be more than 3/16 inch thick and no longer than 6 inches. Total of 6 bolts (3 on each side of car) and 2 up front all thread holding down the hood and any amount of wire or cable.
iv. All wire or cable MUST be mounted outboard of the radiator.
v. A maximum of 20 bolts ⅜ inch or smaller are allowed to bolt together hood seams.
b. TRUNK
i. (4) pieces of ⅝ inch all-thread with a washer no larger than 6 inches outside diameter and ⅜ inch thick.
ii. All-thread may be mounted through the deck lid and frame anywhere in the trunk. Can be welded to the frame or in body mount holes.
iii. In addition to all-thread, you may weld the trunk 5 on 5 off. Straps should NOT be larger than ¼ inch thick or 4 inches wide or (6) 1 inch outside diameter bolts with a washer no larger than 6 inches outside diameter and ⅜ inch thick or (10) ⅜ inch bolts in the drip rail, (NOT both, one or the other) and any amount or wire or cable.
iv. If the trunk is welded, it must have a 12 inch hole in the trunk lid.
v. On station wagons, 2 pieces of 1 inch all-thread with a washer no larger than 6 inches outside diameter and ⅜ inch thick, all-thread may be used in the rear through the roof and stock body mount replacing the existing bolt.
c. TAILGATE
i. May weld 5 on 5 off.
ii. Straps should not be larger than ¼ inch thick or 4 inches wide or (6) 1 inch outside diameter bolts with a washer no larger than 6 inches in outside diameter and ⅜ inch thick, and any amount of wire or cable.
iii. You can weld washers to the body to run wire through. These can be NO bigger than ⅝ inch washer and must be at least 12 inches apart.
BUMPER
1. If the OEM bumper had no bolts, homemade bumper brackets may go 6 inches from the back side of the bumper.
a. Any OEM shock canister may be bolted or welded to any car or may have 10” 2x2x1/4” box tubing.
b. Amounts of welds or bolts may NOT exceed typical stock installation.
c. Homemade bumper brackets are allowed.
d. NO gussets or bracing.
e. NOT to extend behind OEM mounting bolt location on frame.
f. May use 2 and a ½ inch max. round or square tubing, NO thicker than ¼ inch. NO solid stock may be used.
g. This can only extend into 8 inches MAX. Will be drilled at 8 ¼ inches measured from the front edge of the frame.
2. Any OEM stock automobile bumper may be bolted or welded to the shock canister or bumper brackets.
a. May use 2 pieces of light chain per shock.
3. Fenders and bumper ends may be trimmed to allow for wheel clearance.
4. Front bumper may be reinforced inside or behind and end to end.
5. Must have chrome on the outer part of the bumper from any OEM bumper shaped to fit.
a. You may weld the outer chrome of the bumper to the inner skin of the bumper.
b. Anything coming out of the bumper during the race will be cause for disqualification.
6. 11 inches of point and must contour from frame to frame and must be stock appearing on pointy bumpers. (curve of point must start at each frame).
7. You may have 6 inches long by 4 inches wide by ¼ inch thick bumper support bracket, butt fit against bumper and 2 inches onto bumper. If you're running a preran and choose to put your extra 4 inch by 4 inch by ¼ inch plate up front, there must be at least an ⅛ inch gap between 2 plates. Any questions, please call.
8. NO front bumper straps or all-thread to core support.
SUSPENSION
1. Stiffness of suspension will be left up to the driver. NO other metal added!
2. Homemade tie rods and homemade steering shafts are allowed.
3. NO pipe over struts.
REAR-END
1. Any automobile front wheel drive rear end can be used in any car. You may lift the rear end by shortening or lengthening rear end control arms.
2. Trailing arms may be reinforced or made out of 2x2x1/4” square tubing.
3. NO dually wheels allowed.
4. Any drive shaft/half shaft or U-joint may be used. Welding of the drive shaft is allowed.
5. NO extra metal added. Any bracket that shows reinforcement will not be allowed. Judges have the final decision.
ENGINE/TRANSMISSION
1. Any engine or transmission may be used in any front wheel drive car but MUST be mounted in stock position.
2. Chained, welded, or homemade motor mounts will be allowed but MUST meet approval of officials.
3. At motor mount to subframe your allowed 2 per side of motor mounts; 2 inches by 3 inches by ¼ inch plate on its side welded to frame and motor mount.
4. Any type of header is allowed but MUST be directed away from the driver's compartment.
5. Transmission oil coolers and engine oil coolers are allowed. Inspection personnel must approve all mounting, lines, and fittings.
6. Skid plates are allowed.
a. Must be separate oil/transmission plates.
b. NO full-length skid plates allowed. NO bolting or welding to frame.
7. NO aftermarket or homemade cradle, extreme cradle or pulley protectors.
8. NO carburetor protector outside the intake area or distributor protector.
9. NO aftermarket or homemade attachments to radiator, core support, or fire wall. Do NOT reinforce the firewall/cowl. Do NOT beat, paint, bolt, weld on, weld to, or modify the drivers side of the firewall/cowl in any way.
RADIATOR
1. Any type of automotive radiator may be used but must be mounted in stock position. NO reserve tanks!
2. A radiator cradle is allowed to be made of ⅛ inch metal 1 inch wider than the radiator, bolted only to the car and nothing in front of the radiator. Aftermarket or homemade radiator cradle.
3. Front radiator screen max; ⅜ inch thick, bolted or (4) 1 inch welds.
GAS TANK/BATTERY
1. Battery may be moved but MUST be securely fastened and covered in the passenger compartment.
a. MAXIMUM of 2 automobile type batteries allowed.
b. Battery MUST be secured and covered when coming through inspection.
2. Stock gas tank MUST be removed. A metal boat tank or homemade metal tank must be mounted in the rear seat area and bolted down with metal straps. Any other types of installation will NOT be allowed.
a. NO gas cans with hoses duct taped!
b. A marine (boat) tank or an official approved homem

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